AMD Radeon RX 580
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1 je za gornji red na ekranu (vrh ekrana), da cepanje slike ne bude na sredini. Povecavanjem vrednosti cepanje ide na dole. Ovo mislim da vazi za Borderless, za Full Screen nisam siguran.
Vrednost 1 je dobar izbor jer u nekim igrama se na tom mestu skroz gore ni ne primecuje cepanje.
Vrednost 1 je dobar izbor jer u nekim igrama se na tom mestu skroz gore ni ne primecuje cepanje.
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Mixer93
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Scanline sync replaces the normal FPS limiter. If you set a non 0 value in scanline sync, the FPS limiter value is ignored.
For scanline sync to work correctly, the game needs to run vsync OFF. That means either just plain old vsync OFF or fast sync. (Fast sync will work because it runs games with vsync OFF.)
OK, so now as to how to use it, you need to enter the scanline RTSS should try to sync the FPS limiter against. Using "0" is special and means "disable scanline sync." We'll call it "s-sync" from now on because I don't want to have to type the word "scanline" over and over again
The most useful way to use s-sync is to use a negative value. RTSS interprets this as an offset relative to the last scanline in your current monitor resolution. The goal of s-sync is to give you a way of syncing the FPS limiter against a scanline that is not visible. At 1080p, you have 1080 visible scanlines, plus a couple dozen more that are invisible. If you sync against an invisible one, that means tearing will be invisible. If the total amount of scanlines is 1130 for example, if you enter "-50", then you are trying to sync against scanline 1080, which is the last visible one. This is not perfect however, and in reality RTSS will be only able to sync against a scanline greater than the one you specified. So you need to experiment. -20, -30, -40, and so on, until you see the tearline disappear off the bottom of the screen.
The flush option makes s-sync more accurate. Without flushing, syncing can be very erratic and jittery. The tearing will probably not be located around the target scanline, but will jump up and down seemingly at random. Flush will make it more accurate. "1" is only available in DX 10, DX 11 and OpenGL games. It's very fast but can be less accurate. "2" also works in DX 9, DX 12 and Vulkan games, but is slower and requires a stronger GPU to work without stutter. If you use flush=1 in a DX9/12 or Vulkan game, it's treated as flush=2.
Yes, you can do "1/2 s-sync", by clicking the "scanline sync" button until it says "scanline sync x/2". This will cap your FPS to half your refresh rate. The "x*2" setting will do the opposite, it will cap to double your refresh rate.
If your GPU is not fast enough, or the game is too heavy and you can't get the tearing to be hidden, you can instead use fast sync in the nvidia panel, and sync against scanline "1". This will have more input lag (because you're syncing against the first scanline instead of the last one), but this will allow fast sync to hide the tearline. If you try to sync against a higher scanline, input lag goes down, but the possibility of fast sync stutter will increase.
For scanline sync to work correctly, the game needs to run vsync OFF. That means either just plain old vsync OFF or fast sync. (Fast sync will work because it runs games with vsync OFF.)
OK, so now as to how to use it, you need to enter the scanline RTSS should try to sync the FPS limiter against. Using "0" is special and means "disable scanline sync." We'll call it "s-sync" from now on because I don't want to have to type the word "scanline" over and over again
The most useful way to use s-sync is to use a negative value. RTSS interprets this as an offset relative to the last scanline in your current monitor resolution. The goal of s-sync is to give you a way of syncing the FPS limiter against a scanline that is not visible. At 1080p, you have 1080 visible scanlines, plus a couple dozen more that are invisible. If you sync against an invisible one, that means tearing will be invisible. If the total amount of scanlines is 1130 for example, if you enter "-50", then you are trying to sync against scanline 1080, which is the last visible one. This is not perfect however, and in reality RTSS will be only able to sync against a scanline greater than the one you specified. So you need to experiment. -20, -30, -40, and so on, until you see the tearline disappear off the bottom of the screen.
The flush option makes s-sync more accurate. Without flushing, syncing can be very erratic and jittery. The tearing will probably not be located around the target scanline, but will jump up and down seemingly at random. Flush will make it more accurate. "1" is only available in DX 10, DX 11 and OpenGL games. It's very fast but can be less accurate. "2" also works in DX 9, DX 12 and Vulkan games, but is slower and requires a stronger GPU to work without stutter. If you use flush=1 in a DX9/12 or Vulkan game, it's treated as flush=2.
Yes, you can do "1/2 s-sync", by clicking the "scanline sync" button until it says "scanline sync x/2". This will cap your FPS to half your refresh rate. The "x*2" setting will do the opposite, it will cap to double your refresh rate.
If your GPU is not fast enough, or the game is too heavy and you can't get the tearing to be hidden, you can instead use fast sync in the nvidia panel, and sync against scanline "1". This will have more input lag (because you're syncing against the first scanline instead of the last one), but this will allow fast sync to hide the tearline. If you try to sync against a higher scanline, input lag goes down, but the possibility of fast sync stutter will increase.
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https://streamable.com/kethk
Sa leve strane vsync, sa desne vsync + scanline1 + framelimit60.
Kao sto sam pisao hsv-u, generalno dosta stabilniji frametime. A moze da pomogne i sa problemima oko stuttera. (npr. resavalo ljudima u Fallen Order, baci pogled kada sam predlagao u temi)
RE3 nije bas dobar primer, jer je super optimizovana igra.
Ali eto, vec preko godinu dana ovo koristim kada igram bilo sta. Ne moze da odmogne.
Sa leve strane vsync, sa desne vsync + scanline1 + framelimit60.
Kao sto sam pisao hsv-u, generalno dosta stabilniji frametime. A moze da pomogne i sa problemima oko stuttera. (npr. resavalo ljudima u Fallen Order, baci pogled kada sam predlagao u temi)
RE3 nije bas dobar primer, jer je super optimizovana igra.
Ali eto, vec preko godinu dana ovo koristim kada igram bilo sta. Ne moze da odmogne.
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Da, takodje bude bolji. Framerate limit + scanline (nebitna vrednost), dovode do boljitka. Samo je pitanje da li ce i kolikog cepanja biti.
Zasto stavljam bas vrednost 1 sam napisao iznad:
Zasto stavljam bas vrednost 1 sam napisao iznad:
hsv.stoned
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Pozdrav ljudi, bih da zamijenim svoju Gigabyte 1050 low profile (koja se raaaaspada) za rx 580 nitro 4gb, da doplatim 60e... Naime, sta mogu odraditi, testirati, benchmark odraditi da provjerim tu rx 580 u 24h. Toliko mi daje garanciju tip. Kaze da nije rudarila, po slikama djeluje kao nova, al ajde , slike ne predstavljaju nista. Unaprije HVALA!
Okej, zahvaljujem.
Gde da nadjem neki aftermarket cooler za rx580?
Pregledao sam skoro sve sajtove trgovaca kod nas i ponuda je bukvalno 0
Mislim da bi mi odgovarao accelero twin turbo ili mozda i onaj mono sa heatpipe-ovima
U pitanju je asus dual verzija, moze da ohladi ali kako je otoplilo radi na 2500rpm i cuje se kao avion
Pregledao sam skoro sve sajtove trgovaca kod nas i ponuda je bukvalno 0
Mislim da bi mi odgovarao accelero twin turbo ili mozda i onaj mono sa heatpipe-ovima
U pitanju je asus dual verzija, moze da ohladi ali kako je otoplilo radi na 2500rpm i cuje se kao avion
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Boqy
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Ma kakav aftermarket, ne isplati se, samo undervolt i underclock ako treba.
Nesto tipa 1300/1.05V (Zavisi od primerka.)
Nesto tipa 1300/1.05V (Zavisi od primerka.)
Probao sam mod, 2x 12cm fan. Rezultat na ~1000rpm tisina ali ide 80+c, Moze da drzi temperaturu do ~75c (kao stock cooler) ali na veci rpm koji opet stvara buku. Mislim nije to glasno mnogo i bilo bi ok kad bi mogao da kontrolisem rpm sa opterecenjem...
Splinter
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Ako taj isti vent na LC CC120 drzi ryzen 5 2600 na 50c (max 1000rpm) u gamingu i 60c prime95, onda sigurno nije los
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Splinter
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^ ok.
I kojim ti to onda zakonima fizike objasnjavas da fabricki ventovi koji imaju 7-8cm precnik, manje lopatice i tanji su, bolje ili isto hlade gpu od dobrih 12-tki ventilatora, + proizvode isti nivo buke????
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I kojim ti to onda zakonima fizike objasnjavas da fabricki ventovi koji imaju 7-8cm precnik, manje lopatice i tanji su, bolje ili isto hlade gpu od dobrih 12-tki ventilatora, + proizvode isti nivo buke????
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1000 vs 2500 rpm, i nisu 7-8cm nego 10cm precnik
plus zbog same konstrukcije kartice nije moguca idealna montaza, sa jedne strane pola cm ne pokriva hladnjak a sa druge strane ide 1cm preko hladnjaka
Kad sam rekao da proizvode isti nivo buke?
2x12 na 1000rpm se ne cuje i hladi za nijansu slabije, na 1200-1250rpm hladi za nijansu bolje ali se cuje. To uopste nije velika buka ali se cuje, problem je ne mogucnost kontrole rpm u skladu sa opterecenjem jer su 12cm ventovi zakaceni na plocu
Stock cooler ima zero rpm opciju, tako da je silent, problem je kad se optereti 100%
plus zbog same konstrukcije kartice nije moguca idealna montaza, sa jedne strane pola cm ne pokriva hladnjak a sa druge strane ide 1cm preko hladnjaka
Kad sam rekao da proizvode isti nivo buke?
2x12 na 1000rpm se ne cuje i hladi za nijansu slabije, na 1200-1250rpm hladi za nijansu bolje ali se cuje. To uopste nije velika buka ali se cuje, problem je ne mogucnost kontrole rpm u skladu sa opterecenjem jer su 12cm ventovi zakaceni na plocu
Stock cooler ima zero rpm opciju, tako da je silent, problem je kad se optereti 100%
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Splinter
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^ kao sto sam vec napisao, lose su ti te 12-ke. Mozes vjerovati, a i ne moras.
Btw, dobrim 12-tkama mozes u sitna crijevca podesiti rpm.
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Btw, dobrim 12-tkama mozes u sitna crijevca podesiti rpm
.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
